Culinary Wisdom / Asking Chef Will
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We talk to chef Will Goldfarb, “The Golden Boy of Pastry”, after his recent guest appearance at The Living Room in W Hotel Hong Kong. He shares his dessert knowledge in this month’s Culinary Wisdom.

Text by Jason Spotts, illustration by Tim Cheng


Asking Chef Will
What are your essential tools for dessert making?
I cannot live without a small off set spatula. I use a Misono UX-10stainless steel chef’s knife for most tasks, and different sized spoons for serving or quenelling are critical. Also, a jeweller’s scale is a must. A superior ice cream machine ismy one critical “large” buy, and I have a new one that I am falling in love with: A Bravo Gelmatic tabletop unit which churns 2.5 litres in under six minutes, and has an alarm for temperature rather than a timer.
Asking Chef Will
What are some cool modern gadgets available that help with dessert making?
I have many favourites, which is why I started willequipped.com to make them available to everyone. I have a soft spot for the Pacojetice cream maker. The Brymill Cry-AC liquid nitrogen spot sprayeris a nifty device either in pastry or on the sidelines at the World Cup .A Minipack-Torre vacuum sealer, and a proper circulator for a water bath are becoming modern kitchen essentials. And who doesn’t lovea rotary evaporator like the one Buchi made especially for us?
Asking Chef Will
What makes the perfect soufflé?
I think there isn’t much flavour concentration in soufflés but people love them, I imagine primarily forthe showbiz effect. So in this case, the service vessel is critical – I would recommend a copper sautoir. For preparation, the soufflé bases (and their recipes) are key. A perfect pastry cream will allow for a perfect soufflé, but only if it is finished with a perfect meringue.
Asking Chef Will
Is there such a thing as a good diet dessert? What’s the best way to lure a sugarphobic to the dessert table?
All desserts are good for dieting. Proper desserts have a good balance of sugar, fat and vitamins and are not unhealthy. Rather, they are a luxurious component of a balanced diet. The best way to lure a sugarphobe to the dessert table is with handcuffs.
Asking Chef Will
What are your favourite offbeat flavour combinations for desserts?
I have to think carefully about this, since the combinations that I use are very classic to me, but somemay be less classic to others. These include wakame seaweed with coconut, Époisses cheese with vanilla, caramel with endives,raspberries with beet and yoghurt,and lime with white chocolate, olive oil and salt.
Asking Chef Will
What are some common mistakes of dessert making?
A few that stand out are when butter is mixed into dough at too high a temperature and not resting dough prior to baking. Also, many people don’t understand the attributes of their chosen ingredients before cooking them. Other common mistakes include not checking whether a gelée will set before setting it, whipping cream at too high a temperature or to an incorrect peak, failing to properly emulsify ingredients in ganache, and allowing delicate acids to be heated, thereby destroying their flavour profile.
Asking Chef Will
What type of apple is best for baking with various types of dessert?
It totally depends on the application. I love Granny Smith apples for a wide variety of uses because of their acidity. For straight baking, I enjoy gala apples. For caramelising,I like lady apples.