Culinary Wisdom / ASKING CHEF MARCO TORRE
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Chef de Cuisine Marco Torre from Grissini shares his cooking wisdom on all things Italian. Crave presents his answers to your questions in this month’s Culinary Wisdom.

Text by Jason Spotts, illustration by Tim Cheng


ASKING CHEF MARCO TORRE
How does an olive oil’s flavour change with age? Does olive oil ever go bad? What’s the best way to store it?
Unlike wine, the flavour of olive oil doesn’t improve with age. Quality depends on the olive grove, how they’re grown, transportation, and oil extraction methods. Also, the age of harvest is very important. The best extra virgin olive oil, such as Taggiasca, uses greener olives that are less ripe, and only oil from the first round of extraction is used. Olive oil should not go bad as it can be used as a food preservative. Keep your container airtight and away from excessive light and temperature and it should not spoil.
ASKING CHEF MARCO TORRE
When is it appropriate to use pure olive oil as opposed to extra virgin?
It will depend on the chef but keep in mind that heat cancels the flavour and properties of olive oil. Sometimes, good olive oil can even become bitter. If you are using very good extra virgin oil, save it for salads or for drizzling as a finish. The best extra virgin olive oil from the south of Italy can be used for cooking because it still retains a nice flavour when exposed to heat, but they are rare.
ASKING CHEF MARCO TORRE
What’s a good flour blend for making pasta?
For pasta with no filling, use a mix of semolina and white flour because semolina gives more of an al dente texture. For ravioli and tortellini, use only white flour because the dough needs to be more elastic.
ASKING CHEF MARCO TORRE
What dishes require the more intensely flavoured dried mushrooms as opposed to fresh ones?
Dried mushrooms have an entirely different and concentrated flavour compared to fresh mushrooms, and should be used in dishes with dominant flavours. For example, in a ragout, a risotto, or even a vegetable broth where fresh mushrooms would be overwhelmed, it is better to use dried ones.
ASKING CHEF MARCO TORRE
What type of parmesan cheese 7 is suitable for a final touch on certain dishes?
There is a huge difference between young and aged parmesan. For heavier dishes such as stew or a meaty pasta, use a salty, aged parmesan. For cool, delicate dishes such as salads or carpaccio, use a younger one. Even for light sauces like a tomato and basil pasta, stick to a younger parmesan so that the flavour doesn’t overwhelm the dish.
ASKING CHEF MARCO TORRE
What’s the best way to make a homemade Italian herb mix?
You have to pick the right dried herbs. Some herbs become more flavourful when dried, and some less. Oregano is 10 times better when it is dried. Thyme, tarragon, and bay leaves are also better dried. You want flavour and aroma in a herb mix, so avoid drying parsley and basil. They lose most of their properties if they are not fresh.
ASKING CHEF MARCO TORRE
Anchovies and sardines are great for a flavour boost to a lot of dishes. Do you have any personal favourites?
In Italy, we often use anchovies to start a sauce and give it more character. In your oil on low heat, you can throw in some garlic and some anchovies. They tend to melt in with a gentle saute, so the flavour spreads through whatever you decide to cook next, be it a sauce or sauteed vegetables. We always use salted anchovies in Italy, and if we have fresh ones we fry or grill them.