Culinary Wisdom / ASKING CHEF LEE
From Island Shangri-La’s Summer Palace, Executive Chef Lee Keung shares his tips on the art of Cantonese cooking in our monthly dose of culinary wisdom.
Text by Jason Spotts, illustration by Tim Cheng
What are the advantages of cooking with a carbon steel wok over a non-stick wok?
First, it is easier to heat and the heat spreads evenly. The most important thing in Chinese cooking is building wok heat, or “wok hei”. Non-stick woks are not hot enough. Also, carbon steel woks contribute their own flavour. The smoke that builds and funnels up will infuse into your food. You cannot get this in a non-stick wok.
What are the key steps to breaking in a carbon steel wok? How do you clean and maintain the wok?
New carbon steel woks smell fishy and metallic. Thoroughly wash your wok with soapy water and let it dry. Make sure your kitchen is very well ventilated, then heat the wok until very hot. Brush around the entire surface of the wok with a little oil, sprigs of spring onions or a barbecue brush until the wok turns brown. To clean, wash with water – never with detergent. First, heat the wok and rinse. Dry it, brush with oil, heat it then rinse again. For stubborn grease, scrub with a water and baking soda solution.
What are the advantages of cooking with a carbon steel wok over a non-stick wok?
With good soy sauce, the important thing is being able to taste the soybeans. Many types of soy sauce taste good without a depth of flavour. It just tastes like liquified MSG. Also, premium soy sauce smells as good as it tastes. If you find that your soy sauce is too strong, add a little cold, boiled water, and heat it back up. You can also add sugar in increments to lift the flavour.
How do you generate enough heat, or “wok hei”, for Chinese cooking?
Generally, you build “wok hei” from medium heat and end a dish with high heat. The key is to have quick hands in stir-fry. If you’re fast enough then you can get away with more heat (if not, use less heat but you won’t generate the same wok hei and flavour). Also, shaoxing wine helps build heat. Pour a little around the surface of the wok during your stir-fry.
Walk us through the crucial steps of steaming a fish, Cantonese style.
Scrape scales off the fish and make a horizontal incision on both sides down to the spine. Place chopsticks on a plate with some spring onion, then put the fish on the chopsticks to ensure even cooking. Pat the fish dry and put slices of ginger on top. When the water is boiling, steam the fish for seven to eight minutes on high heat without removing the lid. Remove everything but the fish and pour boiled oil on it. Then top with freshly cut spring onions and a soy sauce and sugar solution you heat up in a separate wok.
Walk us through how to chop up a whole chicken.
Begin by removing the head and neck. Then, halve the chicken lengthways, from tail to neck. Remove the wings and thighs. Cut drumstick away, and cut thigh into equal segments. Cut each torso diagonally in half, separating breast meat from thigh meat. Halve these segments again before cutting into segments of equal width.
What’s the secret to making tender beef stir-fry?
The key is time management. Your wok oil should be boiling when you put the beef in but stir-fry quickly on medium heat afterwards.Your soy sauce seasoning and cornstarch solution should go
in last, before you finish stir-frying on high heat again.


