Review / Pastis

Pastis

A Parisian bistro with flourishes from the south of France provides a welcome respite from busy Wyndham Street.

Text by Debbie Soo, photos by Happy Yuen

The moment you enter Pastis, what strikes you is the laidback and unpretentious interior. Rustic wooden tables, cosy leather booths and the sounds of French song birds crooning from the speakers envelop you with a warm and comfortable feeling. But Pastis is not just about ambience– the food is as unassuming and inviting as the décor.

Co-owners Jerome Spitzer and Olivier Caisson (the duo behind the jazzy lounge Le Boudoir next door) wanted to create a place that served no-nonsense French food and reminded them of home.

“Hong Kong was lacking a bit of simple French cuisine. It’s full of nice upscale restaurants but it was missing out on something that was more like what mummy used to cook for us in the kitchen”.

The menu at Pastis was actually created with the help of their “mummies”, both of whom were flown in to make some of their sons’ favourite home-cooked meals. It seems, yet again, that a mother’s touch was all that was needed.

The success of Pastis in creating a home away from home for many of their French regulars is obvious, as they all seem more than ready to attest to the authenticity of the cuisine. For weekend dinners, be sure to book a day in advance, and their lovely manager Severine will try to find you a place in this delicious French bistro.


Dinner for Two
1.	Rillettes de Canard	$79
2.	Salad Niçoise	$79
3.	Steak Tartare au Couteau	$180
4.	Beef bourguignon	$159
5.	Tarte aux PommesFaçon Tatin	$50
Total		$547
*Price subject to change without notice

Rillettes de Canard

A recipe from Jerome’s mother, this French rillettes is made with duck leg and duck fat slow-cooked to create a tasty spread or “brown jam”. Served with gherkins and warm bread that is baked fresh every morning, the dish is just creamy and salty enough to perfectly accent the simplicity of the bread.

Salad Niçoise

The Niçoise at Pastis is kept as traditional as possible. The coming together of the chunky tuna, green beans, cherry tomatoes, anchovies, eggs, capers, radish, and black olives is delightful. This tasty salad transports you straight to Nice with every delicious bite.

Steak Tartare au Couteau

Hand-chopped New Zealand sirloin is tossed with a selection of seasonings in a medium spicy sauce. The blend of flavours created by the alluring combination of the raw steak accented with capers, onions, parsley and chef Jeff’s special sauce, is surprisingly light and refreshing.

Beef bourguignon

Hearty, warm and simple – this dish is the epitome of what Pastis is all about. Seasoned with Provençal herbs and stewed in a combination of red wine and au jus, the slow-cooked beef cheek is served with just the right amount of sauce. The meat is marbled and tender and pairs flawlessly with the soft carrots and potatoes with which it is served.

Tarte aux PommesFaçon Tatin

The tantalising smell of this dessert is what you notice first, as hints of sugar and spicy apples waft through the air. The topping on the buttery puff pastry is a delightful combination of the sweet stickiness of caramelised sugar and the tartness of green apples. This dessert is not only comforting, but utterly divine.

Pastis

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