Taipei has a reputation as a noisy Asian junction. But its myriad cultural influences have produced a vibrant and ever-evolving food scene.
Text by Nana Chan
It is located on the sprawling crossroads of Asia and its moped-clogged streets, brawling politicians and over-lit night markets only bolster Taipei’s image as a forbidding, rowdy destination. All in all it isa place where you might expect to eat basic street food such as beef noodles, rather than sophisticated culinary fare.
However, this would be doing the capital of Taiwan, the island Portuguese settlers once called Formosa (meaning “beautiful island”), a great disservice. Taiwan is one of Asia’s great cultural melting pots, a land infused with Polynesian aboriginal culture, the proud traditions of Fujian people who began settling there during the Qing dynasty, the influence of more than 50 years of imperial Japanese rule, not to mention thousands of years of Chinese cultural input brought by the defeated Chinese Nationalist Army in 1949. If you take a look at a map of Taipei, you will see streets named after Chengdu and Guiyang in the southwest corner of the city, and Jilin and Liaoning Street in the northeast, the geographical points where you will find these cities on a map of China.
This cultural gumbo has bred a thriving culinary scene where fusion is the norm and where its gastronomic proponents constantly strive for new blends of flavours and textures.
Take Lin Bing Hui for example. Often regarded as the godfather of “private kitchens” in Taiwan, Lin Bing Hui left his life as an architect just over 10 years ago to start Shi-yang Culture Restaurant as a sort of creative playground to promote the slow food movement. It turnedo ut to be a big hit. Now in its third location, the new premises of Shi-Yang at Xizhi promises diners the same experience as Lin Bing Hui did a decade ago – a Zen-influenced menu and setting, a place to slow down and unwind away from the daily humdrum of city life.
Another leading light on the Taipei food scene is Hsiao Man, who, much like Lin Bing Hui, is also Zen-influenced. She discovered her passion for the culinary arts while studying in Japan and decided to transform her childhood house near Shida University into a workspace and restaurant. Going to Hsiao Man’s is just like going to a friend’s, only a tasteful one who whips up Chinese cuisine with a Japanese tinge and knows how to make a fine rice wine.
Venture into the Shida area of the city, and you can try out a cooking class at South Village hosted by famous Taiwanese food writer Han Liang Lu. The sessions, run by a variety of chefs and restaurant owners, are like cultural exchanges where the story and history behind foods are shared and explored.
If Shi-Yang and Hsiao Man are a bit too Zen for your taste, try Da Yin Jiu Shi for some true Taiwanese spirit.
Hidden in the back alleys of the famous Yongkang Street area, owner and chef James opened Da Yin in memory of the foods he loved as a child. For good measure he has decorated the premises with memorabilia from the 1950s. Here you can sample old-time favourites such as pork fat mixed with plain or stir-fried rice served with water spinach and washed down with a bottle of good old Taiwanese beer.
When you think of xiao long bao, you naturally think of Shanghai. However, so good are the people of Taiwan at redefining the motherland’s foods that, ironically, the best xiao long bao are now to be found in Taiwan. Everyone will have heard of Din Tai Fung now that its branches have expanded into Hong Kong, but some still insist that the original branch in the Yongkang area, where thewait easily reaches up to one hour during lunch times, is the best. Try its latest truffle-infused luffa xiao long baos, they’re really quite something.
Another Zhejiang food which has been successfully appropriated by the Taiwanese is soybean milk and fried dough. This breakfast staple is a world away from the ones you get off the Shanghainese stalls in Hong Kong. The Taiwanese version is a clever combination of soymilk and Northern shaobing, or baked flatcakes.
The ones at Fu Hang Soybean are the best, but be prepared to get up early to brave the queues for at least 30 minutes before you will be awarded with a bowl of fragrant soybean milk and fried dough and scrambled eggs wrapped in shao bing.
If you have overdosed on Chinese food, Taipei provides plenty of other options. VVG Bistro and Nonzero serve up delicious Western dishes in great surroundings. VVG Bistro was established in 1999 on the whim off our girlfriends who had wanted a start a test kitchen for friends to try out their cooking skills during the weekends.
With customers loving their experimental, homey approach, VVG developed into an empire which now includes the original bistro, a fine dining restaurant, a B&B, and most recently a retail shop selling lifestyle items.
Nonzero is the brainchild of social entrepreneur and “daymaker” Ping Chu. Built around the concept of the organic and whole foods markets you find in the West, Ping created Nonzero to remind us that healthy food can also taste good through simple cooking.
Finally, nobody leaves Taipei without experimenting its back-alley café culture. My favourite is Have a Booday, the café annexed to design team Mogu’s lifestyle retail store.
Mogu’s handmade designs convey life’s simple pleasures. This ideology can be found in its café as well as how its simple menu comprises homemade sandwiches, coffees, cakes and a mean chai latte. With its diverse food culture, Taipei’s vibrant culinary landscape attracts millions of visitors every year. And for food lovers, a one hour and a half plane ride from Hong Kong constitutes the perfect
weekend getaway.
Da Yin Jiu Shi
There are two restaurants, the main restaurant Da Yin, and Xiao Yin just round the corner.
Da Yin
No. 65 Yongkang Street, Da An District, Taipei
Tel: +886 2 2343 2275
Xiao Yin
No. 42-5, Yongkang Street, Da An District, Taipei
There are two restaurants, the main Da Yin, and Xiao Yin, which is open when Da Yin overflows. Being here is like travelling back in time, Manga style. Old-time favourites like pork fat mixed with plain rice or water spinach is a must-try.
Din Tai Fung
No. 194, Xinyi Road,Sec. 2, Da An District, Taipei
Tel: +886 2 2321 8928
Though Hongkongers are no strangers to Din Tai Fung with their two local branches, the original restaurant on Xinyi Road adds that extra little something to the experience with the hour-long wait and chaotic yet friendly service. Many still believe this to be the best of all its different branches.
Fu Hang Dou Jiang
2/F,No. 108 Zhongxiao East Road,Sec. 1, Taipei
Tel: +886 1 2392 2175
The ultimate breakfast experience. It is hard to imagine any other place on earth where a $20 breakfast will cost you an hour’s wait at 7 in the morning, but it’s worth it. The freshly made soybean milk and fried dough and scrambled eggs wrapped in shaobing easily beat a Starbucks breakfast.
Nonzero
No. 5, Alley 4, Lane 27,Sec. 4, Ren-Ai Road, Taipei
Tel: +886 2 2772 1630
Be prepared to be inspired by Nonzero’s dream for a better, brighter, and healthier future. The owner, Ping Chu’s vision is reflected in the cafe’s organic, rustic décor, small retail space promoting artisanal ingredients and fresh, simple food.
Shi Yang Culture Restaurant
No. 7, Lane 350, Sec 3, Xi Wan Road,Xizhi City, Taipei County
Tel: +886 2 2646 2266
Whether it is to admire the mountain views at its Zen-inspired retreat or to sample its healthy yet aesthetically pleasing menu, Shi Yang is worth the hike out of Taipei City. Book early and bring a date, this is the place to impress and be impressed.
VVG Bistro
No. 20, Alley 40, Lane 181,Zhongxiao East Road,Sec. 4, Taipei
Tel: +886 8773 3533
The VVG family has the Bistro, Table, Bon Bon (patisserie), a lifestyle retail store and even a B&B, all within 2 minutes walking distance from each other. Start with Bistro, the original and most laid-back of the lot. You can easily lounge here for hours on a sunny afternoon with its homemade bread and pasta.
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