Features / Vivi Ristorante
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Vivi Ristorante

In a Sicilian marriage of old and new, Vivi has a taste for innovation and the inside track to the region’s best produce.

Text by Jason Spotts, photos by Happy Yuen

The southern Italian island of Sicily has been scarred by conquest across the centuries, but it bore unexpected fruit. Its cuisine is marked by influences from past conquerors – Greek and Arab to name a few. Abundant use of citrus, fruits, fish, vegetables and a rich dessert culture combined with Italian tradition make it a vibrant example of the country’s cuisine.

On Central’s Wyndham Street, an example of modern Sicily is found at Vivi. According toSicilian-born chef/owner Andrea Assenza, Sicily is undergoing a culinary renaissance. He aims to bring his collective experience and Sicilian roots to the city with a touch of creativity.

“Tradition is sometimes a little boring for me,” says Assenza. “Of course, tradition is important and you must know the history of a dish before you change it. But I want to give diners an experience that is hard to compare in Hong Kong. We cook Sicilian with traditional methods, but with a modern, personal touch.”

As such, expect the occasional surprise at Vivi. Italian cuisine is steadfastly traditional and Assenza takes a calculated risk in his creative liberties. However, they tend to be for a reason. The main draw, however, is the quality and accountability of his fresh ingredients.

“My uncle grows the vegetables we use,” says Assenza, “sourced from my city of Vittoria in the province of Ragusa, famous for produce. That’s very important. I used to work those very fields growing up. I know exactly where it comes from and how it got here.

“If you work with top ingredients, your job is easy. You are already working with quality. The same produce here is being used by great chefs in Sicily.It is an experience we cannot duplicate entirely, as they have the advantage of produce cooked the day of harvest. What we can offer is the next best thing.

VIVI RISTORANTE     34 Wyndham Street, Central | Tel: 2840 1950

 

BILL
  Dinner for two  
  1. Mini Campania buffalo mozzarella with Sicilian black tomatoes $158  
  2. Tian of eggplant and Sicilian red shrimp $178  
  3. Pappardelle with Wagyu beef cheek ragout $178  
  4. Grilled fillet of Scottish Black Angus and roasted herb potatoes $328  
  5. Cannolo Siciliano pastry $108  
  Total $950  
  *Price subject to change without notice  
Vivi Ristorante
Mini Campania buffalo mozzarella with Sicilian black tomatoes
The Sicilian black tomatoes are a real treat with just a touch of brine in the aftertaste. The unusually thick-but-crisp skin makes them a great foil for the creamy texture of the mozzarella. On the side is an organic tomato and herb terrine topped with fresh basil mousse. Finished with basil oil and primo sale (“first salt”), a prime sea salt.
Vivi Ristorante
Tian of eggplant and Sicilian red shrimp
Tian of eggplant, Sicilian red shrimp, pecorino and basi Grilled organic eggplant is layered with homemade tomato sauce, parmesan, pecorino, fresh basil and sweet Sicilian red shrimp. The richness of the cheese and the eggplant is set elegantly against the fresh tomato sauce, fragrant herbs and sweet shrimp. Basil leaves, sliced pecorino and a whole shrimp roasted with thyme oil are served on the side.
Vivi Ristorante
Pappardelle with Wagyu beef cheek ragout
The beef cheek is slow-roasted with vegetables and Sicilian wine for five hours. The succulent meat is shredded and then cooked in its own jus reduction with butter, parmesan, olive oil and parsley. It is tossed with homemade pappardelle and topped with bitter chocolate shavings. Crucially, fresh sprigs of thyme provide a beautiful, final lift.
Vivi Ristorante
Grilled fillet of Scottish Black Angus and roasted herb potatoes
The tenderloin is roasted with herb potatoes and smoked beechwood-infused oil. The smokiness is delicate, enhancing flavour rather than dominating the cut. Roasted potatoes are crusted with spices and roasted rosemary that explode with aroma. A dish that is well-seasoned and well-spiced, leaving a lingering and pleasant aftertaste of spice on the palate.
Vivi Ristorante
Cannolo Siciliano pastry
The cannolo is a traditional Sicilian dessert staple, made here with an experimental play on temperature. The crisp horn pastry is filled with artisan ricotta cheese sourced from a small Sicilian cottage. Topped with pistachio crumbs and a warm prickly pear soup on the side. The highlight? One of the tastiest homemade almond gelatos around.

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