Sri Lanka, once thought to be the Garden of Eden, is the place to go for fragrant curriesand mouth-watering sweets.
Text by Cynthia Rosenfeld
Sri Lanka, the palm-covered island shaped like a teardrop, lying just off the southern tip of India, has long captivated the imagination. Cleopatra and Sinbad coveted its sparkling gemstones such as sapphires, which have seen a rise in demand due to Kate Middleton’s engagement ring, which once belonged to Princess Diana.
The ancient Greeks believed the Garden of Eden was located in Sri Lanka, so they called it “Serendib”. Portuguese and Dutch occupied parts of the island during the 16th and 17th centuries to further their maritime imperial ambitions, until the British seized control in 1796 and renamed the island Ceylon.
Independent since 1948, Sri Lanka, or “resplendent land”, was mired in civil war from 1983 to 2009. These days while reconciliation and reconstruction inch forward in the north, tourists flock to Sri Lanka’s sunny south where vibrant culture and postcard perfect beaches abound in equal measure. This is the location for some of Asia’s most elegant accommodations such as Amangalla, a renovated hotel from the colonial era. There’s a jaw- dropping, sun-kissed swimming pool inside the Galle Fort, a Unesco World Heritage Site about three hours drive south of the capital, Colombo.
While the Sri Lankan chef at Amangalla cooks from his mother’s own recipes, the five-star hotel has equally established itself as Galle’s premier address for high tea. Some visitors may find Sri Lankan sweets too saccharine, but this Amanresorts outpost set within the walls of the historic Galle Fort serves a remarkable toned-down version of wattalappam. The dessert is made of jaggery (palm sugar) simmered in coconut milk with cardamom and other spices derived from Muslim Malay cuisine. It has all the smoothness of crème caramel.
Foodies will do well to stop in Colombo on either end of their Sri Lankan trip to become acquainted with the country’s ultra spicy,curry-based cuisine and then for one final taste before take-off. For a gentle gastronomic introduction, and some of the island’s best people watching, head to The Gallery Café. Housed in the former office of stored architect and native son Geoffrey Bawa, this outdoor eatery offers homemade pasta. But those who can take the heat should not miss the black pork dry curry. The meat is char-grilled and served with a generous portion of yellow dhal and crispy pappadams on the restaurant’s signature plates, which are outlined with swirling Sinhalese script.
Dharshan Munidasa, the Sri Lankan-Japanese owner of Nihonbashi, proudly explains that the name means “bridge”. This symbolises his use of Sri Lankan ingredients with a Japanese culinary mindset. The succulent sashimi here reflects access to the freshest catch from the surrounding seas, especially apparent in the signature maguro carpaccio made from the same ruby red tuna heading to the Tokyo fish market. Most delectable is the iPad menu’s newest addition, the Nihonbashi Wagyu burger. It’s worth placing the 24-hour advance order for 180 grams of pure Wagyu patty with no cheese, onions or fries on the side.
The small menu belies big, delicious flavours at Euphorium. The intimate new tea salon was opened by Midori Peiris, a former Amanresorts sales executive. Her Sri Lankan tea-based menu features many of the 80 or so tea varieties grown around the country, including organic black tea from Dambulla and Uva from the island’s northwest. Peiris has been developing her own blends named after literary favourites, like Chloe, a black tea mixed with dried flower petals, and Moveable Feast, consisting of flowers and Sri Lankan strawberries. Minimalist silver foil packaging makes Euphorium’s teas some of the island’s chicest souvenirs. While on the premises, it’s also worth lingering over the Euphoric Tea Soda made from passionfruit syrup, hibiscus, rosehip and black tea. Indulge in bite-sized sugar free banana date muffins fresh from the oven, as well as caramel apple pie and luscious dark chocolate brownies.
Next we head south by car along Galle Road. We stop in at the 15-room Villa Bentota where the island’s style king Shanth Fernando recently used a minimalist approach to renovatingthe 1880s colonial mansion, adding anal fresco dining pavilion, which is open to the public. Feast here on tandoori chicken with avocado salsa, wasabi crusted salmon and wood oven pizza. There’s also classic Sri Lankan black pork or cashew curry with gotukola sambal and sweet mango chutney.
Back on Galle Road we fight traffic all the way to Galle where we check in at Galle Fort Hotel, a 17th-century Dutch merchant’s house turned 12-room inn. Breakfast here would make anyone’s day, from toasted homemade banana bread and freshly ground cinnamon French toast to buffalo curd pancakes, all served with some of the best espresso coffee in the country. Guests can explore the historic Galle Fort or sprawl by the pool, then gather for sundowners on the verandah. Stay on for a dinner of Asian fusion dishes like kung pao chicken, which elevates the takeout classic to high cuisine, tandoori chicken skewers and Vietnamese salad, all of which go down even better with the house ginger and lemongrass iced teas.
One night we head to the hills where Kahanda Kanda sits among a profusion of palm fronds leading out to Koggala Lake. The restaurant’s Thai-trained Sri Lankan chef works primarily with ingredients from the surrounding fertile fields. The bananas in the tarte tatin are freshly shaken off the swaying branches. He whips up a mean green papaya chicken salad and herb- encrusted fish wrapped in banana leaf with coconut rice with newly harvested ingredients.
Everyone’s last stop on this resplendent isle must be Barefoot, the hand-woven cloth haven featuring Technicolor homewares and kaleidoscopic accessories back in Colombo. It also has an outdoor café, where Sunday afternoon live jazz and Wednesday’s Quiz Night draw good crowds. The homemade organic vegetable quiches are the perfect prelude to the island’s tastiest cakes.
Amangalla Fort
10 Church Street, Galle, Sri Lanka
Tel: +94 91 223 3388
The restaurant is accessible even to those not staying at the Aman resort inside the historic Galle Fort. The airy dining room is especially popular for afternoon tea, a delectable amalgamation of British and local flavours.
Barefoot
706 Galle Road, Colombo 3, Sri Lanka
Tel: +94 11 258 0114
Stock up on vibrant handloomed items in this iconic Colombo shop (with another outlet inside the Galle Fort). Then, kick back with a fresh juice to counter the equatorial swelter, adding comfort foods like lasagna, quiche and cakes any time of day.
Gallery Café
2 Alfred House Road, Colombo 3,Sri Lanka
Tel: +94 11 258 2162
The one-time office of legendary tropical architect Geoffrey Bawa, this outdoor eatery attracts Colombo’s bold face names and visiting VIPs. Serves authentic Italian and indigenous fare.
Nihonbashi
11 Galle Face Terrace, Colombo 3, Sri Lanka
Tel: +94 11 232 3847
Seafood otherwise headed to Tokyo’s famous Tsukiji fish market gets diverted to this Zen calm gastronomic retreat just off the frenetic Galle Road. At this spot in central Colombo, local gourmands and Japanese diplomats dig their chopsticks into the freshest catch.
Villa Bentota
Mohotti Walauwa, 138/18-138/22 Galle Road, Bentota, Sri Lanka
Tel: +94 34 227 5311
www.villabentota.com
This open-air eatery, situated along the coastal road linking Colombo to Galle, ensures a gourmet break any time of day. The diverse menu that includes wood oven pizza and Sri Lankan curries will appeal to everyone’s palate.
Getting there
Bandaranaike International Airport, also known as the Colombo International Airport, is the only international commercial airport operating in Sri Lanka. Apart from major airlines such as Singapore Airlines or SriLankan Airlines, travellers can also reach the country by budget airlines like AirAsia or Mihin Lanka. Ratmalana Airport at Colombo, on the other hand, carries most of the domestic flights around cities such as Jaffna and Trincomalee.
Visas and passports
Visitors with HKSAR passports will be granted a landing visa for 30 days upon arrival, given that they possess a return air ticket and sufficient funds for maintenance. For a complete list of passport holders that enjoy prior visa exemption, please visit http://www.immigration.gov.lk/html/visa/fees.html. To stay in the country for more than 30 days, a chargeable visa extension can be granted for a maximum of two months.
Currency
The currency used in Sri Lanka is the rupee (LKR). Credit cards can be widely used in major hotels and restaurants. If using traveller’s cheques, it is advisable to take cheques in US dollars or British pounds to avoid additional exchange rate charges. ATMs can be found around major shopping areas, while banks usually open from 9am to 1pm Monday to Friday, with few exceptions open until 3pm and some on Saturday mornings.
When to go
Event highlights include the Sri Lanka’s Independence Day on February 4, during which parades, dances, processions and games can be found all over the island. The Vesak Poya Day, which is around May 1,is the most important Buddhist full moon day at the year. Streets are decorated with light bulbs and pictures, and some roadside stalls will also offer free food and drinks to passers-by, making this one of the most notable occasions for travellers.
Weather
Sri Lanka experiences two monsoons in opposite halves of the island throughout the year. The northeast monsoon brings unsettled weather to the north and east side of the island from December to March, while the southwest monsoon brings rainstorms and sometimes typhoons to the other side of the country between June and October. Climates in central highlands are cooler and more temperate, though lightweight attire and rainwear are always recommended when visiting the country.
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