Shanghai Surprises

Now that Expo is over and the crowds have dropped off, the glamourous port city proves that it does street food and fine dining with equal flair.

Text by Nana Chan

Some time ago, I relegated Shanghai second to Beijing on my list of top Chinese cities. I preferred the historic and cultural sights of China’s capital city to the transient glamour of the great port city. But soon, I began to reappraise Shanghai: I became aware of the little alleys behind brick-walled lane houses, and I was charmed by the quiet platane-lined streets where Shanghainese still ride nonchalantly on their bikes. And then the dining options swayed me – there is a lot going on in the restaurant scene.

Oyama is a 14-seat omakase-only restaurant headed by Chef Takeo Oyama, who has previously worked with some of the biggest names in Japanese cuisine in Hong Kong. A short walk from busy Huaihai Zhong Lu, enter through a vaulted corridor on Donghu Lu with stone walls, lit by dim lights, to reach a courtyard opening, where the laughter of guests from El Willy’s, a Spanish restaurant on the ground floor, will drift out. A story above and the mood is completely different. Chef Oyama is serious about his food, yet loves to playfully banter with his guests, which makes dining here more like eating at a friend’s home. The omakase menu is RMB800 per head, but it’s worth it for the sake, interesting company, and fish fresh from Tokyo and Nagasaki.

Just a short distance from Oyama is the Wagas compound on 195 Anfu Lu, a converted colonial building with high ceilings and a gabled roof housing Baker & Spice on the ground floor, a Thai restaurant on the second and the eponymous Mr Willis on the third. Baker & Spice is a bread-lover’s-dream: the wood-grained marble storefront, rough-hewn communal table and all things artisanal, from baguettes, bagels and jams to cupcakes, are a delight. Mr Willis is an extension of this theme, with a chic, rustic vibe. There’s a rough reclaimed wooden floor, Japanese ceramic vases, low-hanging lamps and warm rugs. The fare is simple, comfort bistro style – fig and prosciutto salad, warm goat’s cheese soufflé, and a full pizza menu.

While in the French Concession, hop over to the cutest pho café in town – Pho Real. At first glance it doesn’t look like a pho joint: the whitewashed exposed brick walls, baby blue tables, bar seating and fish baskets tastefully hanging from the ceiling are deceptive. But the secret is out. Expect a half an hour’s wait during lunch. The pho with beef flank is better than any I’ve had in Hong Kong.

For the more adventurous, Table No1 at new hotel The Waterhouse is the answer. Jason Atherton, former Executive Chef of Gordon Ramsey’s London restaurant Maze, does modern European fare in portions small enough to share in a “social dining” environment, with long unfinished wood communal tables and grey brick floors.

There are glass panels on either side, with one overlooking the street, and another with a view of the interior courtyard. The space is located in a half-demolished lane house on a remote corner of the Bund, with an urban-decay motif featuring broken tiles, exposed brick, rust and scuffed concrete. And the food? The razor clams with chorizo and coriander were particularly memorable.

For a taste closer to home, try Guyi and Lost Heaven. Guyi is an institution in terms of Hunan cuisine; its original location on Fumin Lu is perpetually crowded with diners who are willing towait hours for the authentic, fiery food. Try the cumin-crusted ribs (ziran paigu) and fish-head with picked chillies (xiangxi yutou wang).

Lost Heaven is housed in an old colonial house in the French Concession. It’s like Yunnan’s version of Hakkasan with its dark wooden beams, embroidered drapery, chic ethnic décor and excellent food. I went to Lost Heaven for the first time in 2006 and have returned on all my visits to Shanghai since. Prepare to be spoilt for choice from Dali, Lijiang and Burma.

If there’s time for only one Shanghainese restaurant, head to Jesse, the cornerstone restaurant of the region’s cooking that has sprawned a chain of new “Jesses” around town. This is, however, by far the best with its no-nonsense staples like red-braised pork, sticky rice ball with Chinese dates (xin tai ruan) and a fish head covered in fried spring onions. Reservations are essential.

Although I’m not the biggest fan of Shanghainese street food, preferring the healthier, more delicate Taiwanese xiao long baos and sheng jian baos (pan-fried pork bun) to Shanghai’s more rugged versions, I had to visit Jia Jia Tangbao and Xiaoyang Shengjian. Hit both in one go on Huanghe Lu. The dumplings at Jia Jia get 10 pinches as opposed to Din Tai Fung’s 18, but at RMB19.5 for a basket of pork and crab xiao long baos, you can’t complain.

In the throes of Expo fever, the city still looked as composed and relaxed as ever as I went from one restaurant to the next. This time around, Shanghai really surprised me. I may have to stop in again and eat my way across the city.

Lost Heaven
38 Gaoyou Lu, Shanghai
Tel: +86 21 6433 5126
17 Yan’an Dong Lu, Shanghai
Tel: +86 21 6330 0967

The only restaurants in Shanghai featuring Chinese ethnic cuisine from the Yunnan region, the two branches of Lost Heaven serve authentic food in hip surroundings. One of the best places to impress a visitor.

BAKER & SPICE / MR WILLIS
1/F and 3/F, 195 Anfu Lu, Shanghai
Tel: +86 21 5404 0200

A rustic-chic interior meets simple, hearty food at Mr Willis. Come here for brunch on a weekend to enjoy the best breads in town, supplied by Baker & Spice downstairs, or make a separate visit after dinner. The croissants are amazing.

Sushi Oyama
2/F, 20 Donghu Lu, Shanghai
Tel: +86 21 5405 7705

Omakase heaven – everything is executed to perfection at Oyama-san’s 14-seat restaurant in the heart of the French Concession. At RMB800 per head the meal doesn’t come cheap, but there is a reason why the wait list is long. So book ahead, and prepare for a night of good food in a cool setting.

Pho Real
166 Fumin Lu, Shanghai
Tel: +86 21 5403 8110

Almost too cute to be missed, this fine pho joint is located in the French Concession next to galleries and the popular boutique gift shop Madame Mao’s Dowry. Expect a little wait, but the food is worth it.

Table No 1
1/F, The Waterhouse, 1-3 Maojiayuan Lu, Shanghai
Tel: +86 21 6080 2918

Located in the hip new hotel The Waterhouse, Table No1 is an extension of its raw luxe theme with rough-hewn communal tables and a cold, industrial vibe. For those who prefer a cosier environment, fear not, Chef Jason Atherton will make it up to you with his Ramsay-quality food.