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San Xi Lou

Sichuan cuisine reflects the region’s culinary greatness.And its status as one of China’s four most influentialcuisines is in good hands at San Xi Lou. Text by Walter Yu, photos by Happy Yuen and Samantha Sin

When describing Sichuan cuisine, “spicy” is simply too generic a word. After all, searing heat alone is not enough to maintain a culinary tradition that stretches back for centuries. Quality is what counts.

Formerly named Moon Kong Hung, San Xi Lou reopened with a new identity in Causeway Bay in 2003. Directly translated as “House of Three Rarities”, the name was inspired by an imperial study in the Qing dynasty, in which the Qianlong Emperor kept his favourite calligraphies and art pieces.

Of course, 2003 was the year of SARS and a subsequent financial meltdown. Did they pick the wrong time to relaunch? “Not really,” says Mr. Ma, Manager of San Xi Lou who has been with the restaurant since its rebranding. “People believe that spicy food is good for health, so our business was not greatly affected despite the downturn.”

San Xi Lou’s food is prepared by native Sichuan chefs. Before the restaurant’s 2008 relocation to the Mid-Levels, mainland tourists were their main customers. An extra mark there for credibility, perhaps, but the restaurant has grown in any case to attract a greater variety of customers, including those from residences nearby. Local food guru Chua Lam has recommended San Xi Lou as “one of the best restaurants in Hong Kong.”

With the weather turning, there are few better comforts than the warmth of numbing spice dancing around your palate. Time again, to pay San Xi Lou a visit.

 

BILL
  Dinner for three  
  1. Cold sliced pork with spicy garlic sauce $52  
  2. Marinated cold chicken with peanut in spicy sauce $208  
  3. Sliced beef in spicy pumpkin stew $188  
  4. Spicy Sichuan-style stewed Mandarin fish $268  
  5. Double-baked prawns with pepper in casserole $168  
  Total $$884  
  *Price subject to change without notice  
San Xi Lou
Cold sliced pork with spicy garlic sauce
A pork cold cut sliced from around the upper thigh has the best balance of lean meat and fattiness. The pork is first steamed whole with various spices. It is then chilled, thinly sliced and served with a spicy mashed garlic sauce. This is the crux of the dish’s balance: the pork does not taste greasy despite the visible layers of fat.
San Xi Lou
Marinated cold chicken with peanut in spicy sauce
The chicken is first deboned then cooked with the help of eight secret spices. Its first bite tastes slightly sweet, followed by a sensation of smoothness, ending with a numbing spiciness that rounds off the profile. The dish is served with slices of bamboo shoot, used either to wrap the chicken or as a palate cleanser before the next spicy creation.
San Xi Lou
Sliced beef in spicy pumpkin stew
This is for those who are a little intimidated by red-hot chilies. It is more an entry-level dish on the spicy scale. To make the gravy, fresh pumpkin and tomato pulp are first stewed and filtered. Slices of US beef are oh-so-gently cooked just before service, and present a source to marry all the flavours and spice from the gr
San Xi Lou
Spicy Sichuan-style stewed Mandarin fish
Spicy stewed fish is a signature Sichuan dish. Fillets from heavier fish (usually over1kg) are used as smaller fish easily crumble when stewed. Besides Chinese perch, diners can order other fish, most commonly giant grouper. Chilies and chili oil is abundant, but for those with a fiery palate, the fish is less spicy than its appearance.
San Xi Lou
Double-baked prawns with pepper in casserole
The prawns are first butter flied and deveined, briefly stir-fried in oil with shells and heads intact. They are then baked in a casserole with white pepper, black pepper, pepper corns and a mix of different spices. The prawns are to be eaten with crispy shells intact so that the smoky notes on the outside are retained.

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