The fine dining scene in the Maldives continues to grow along with the number of luxury resorts. It also doesn’t hurt that the surrounding cerulean waters provide a perfect backdrop to any meal.
Text by Cynthia Rosenfield
In the Maldives, it is an irony that visitors eat at all. The island nation is world’s lowest-lying country, featuring 1,190 coral islands, only 200 of which are inhabited. It stretches 34,750 square miles along the Equator, off the southern tip of India. This ideal stomping ground for bikini ready bodies has nonetheless developed a reputation for pleasing gourmet palates.
Each mind-blowing, luxurious resort sits on its own island, which means most vacationers will only eat at the resort where they stay. Some hideaways are close enough to each other to make island hopping for dinner an enticing option. Book somewhere close to Male, the world’s smallest capital city and home to the international airport, on arrival for at least one night before venturing further towards the horizon. Forty-five minutes from the airport and a perennial favourite among globetrotting jetsetters, Huvafen Fushi is the Maldives at its barefoot chicest. The 43-room retreat offers both beachfront villas set into the sifted flour-soft sand and accommodations above water on stilts, all equipped with plunge pools and staffed by butlers called thakuru.
One of the few reasons to leave these pleasure palaces is Raw, the blond wood and thatched roof, open-air bungalow perched above the translucent lagoon. Sea air accompanies inventive organic cuisine cooked below 107°F. Rely on long-time staff to make recommendations like the premium sashimi in an ice igloo or chilled beetroot and green tomato soup. The waist-level display kitchen allows diners to examine precisely what ingredients go into “Live Moo Shu” of sea vegetables and barley miso in hoi sin sauce, or the Maldivian live lobster fondue.
On a neighbouring island of 12 equally idyllic crescent beaches shaded by 16,000 swaying palms at One&Only Reethi Rah, the over-water Japanese eatery Tapasake has made its name as the Maldives finest. Open for dinner only, the restaurant receives deliveries daily from Tokyo and Osaka to accompany seafood caught in the surrounding waters. Book an outdoor dining pavilion for romantic privacy and kick start the evening by asking the sake sommelier to pour some, hot or cold. Follow jack fish sashimi with seared sesame tuna served with morel mushrooms in ponzu butter sauce, jumbo prawns with sansho pepper and cold spicy green tea soba noodles.
Equally authentic, the Thai food at Baan Huraa would make anyone think of Bangkok, if not for the 360-degree blue views. Long narrow walking bridges link both the Anantara and Naladhu resorts to this free-standing eatery that attracts diners from nearby resorts for ricepaper-wrapped marinated white prawns with sweet mango chili, phad thai noodles and som tam gai yang salad of green papaya in a tangy lime dressing topped with marinated flame grilled chicken. Share generous mains like wok-tossed lobster tail with galangal, green pepper corn, hot basil and chilli flakes. Linger over desserts of mango and sticky rice in coconut juice or sweet bananas with raspberry sorbet while watching out for dolphins.
At Four Seasons Kuda Huraa, just 15 minutes by speedboat from Male, Indian guests return night after night to the waterside open-air Baraabaru. Inside the vibrant dining room festooned with jewel tone fabrics, an open and aromatic tandoori bar allows guests watch the multiple chefs at work. Expect classics like samosas, paneer tikka and tandoori prawns, as well as South Indian specialities including Malabar fish masala and Goan seafood curry. For an insider’s perspective, book the private gazebo or a table on the over-water deck.
Further afield in Baa Atoll, at Four Seasons Resort at Landaa Giraavaru, Al Barakat was named for a 12th century North African seafaring scholar. The duplex dining destination serves water pipes at the downstairs Shisha Bar set just above the fish-filled house reef. Upstairs, dine indoors or on the patio. The Egyptian chef proves equally talented at rich dishes like sautéed chicken with onion, garlic, coriander in lemon juice and marinated lamb chops with Moroccan spices served with yoghurt walnut salad as he does with a lower calorie shirazi salad and grilled Lebanese haloumi cheese with steamed asparagus in Tunisian spices.
Baby sharks and stingrays circle the over-water dining room at Deep End, but little can distract from the exquisite dishes like Moroccan spiced spiny lobster medallions, fresh barramundi in warm Seville orange with honey mustard fizz and Wagyu beef rubbed in garlic and morel jus. Leave the bathing suits behind for this fine dining affair where tables are set with Frette linens and the wine list includes California classics like Robert Mondavi To-Kalon I-Block Fume Blanc. Courses culminate in unexpected deserts, from the relatively healthy beetroot-raspberry sorbet to the deliciously naughty Turkish delight chocolate soufflé.
Reservations are necessary for Ithaa at Conrad Maldives Rangali Island. Though the atoll’s only underground restaurant is decidedly kitschy, few will be able to divert their attention from the all-glass rounded encasement, as angelfish, Napoleon wrasse and titan triggerfish swish past. Only 14 diners per seating descend five metres below sea level to dine. The four- course contemporary Maldivian menus might include homemade foie gras with pain d’epices prepared with fresh fruits in a Tasmanian leatherwood honey water bubble, followed by octopus and lobster “en sous vide” with bintji potatoes, piquillos and chicharrones.
A wine list boasting 1,450 bottles accompanies the inventive cuisine. And, as of next spring, it is now possible to sleep here at a hard-to-digest a rate of US$11,710 per night.
The newest hot tables are found at Relishon the island inhabited by Alila Villas Hadahaain the southern atolls. Designed by Singaporean Chan Soo Khian to Green Globe eco-certification, this double-height, open-air dining room’s most popular tables are actually outside along the infinity pool. Divers who explore the Maldives’ deepest atoll can devour breakfasts of exceptional homemade yoghurts in delectable fruity combinations along with hearty sourdough, rye and gluten free breads served fresh from the oven. Come back for lobster fried rice or seven spiced tuna risotto at lunch then again after dark when the day’s fresh catch gets wrapped in banana leaf. Choosing among the lime Turkish delight with rose ice cream, sticky banana caramel pudding and chocolate molten cake may be the day’s toughest challenge.
Baan Huraa
Anantara Resort Maldives
South Male Atoll, Maldives
Tel: +960 664 4100
www.maldives.anantara.com
The atoll’s top destination for Thai dining keeps it real with Bangkok-bred chefs and plenty of imported spices, plus authentic antiques scattered about the airy interior. The Thai staff recommends spicy tom yam gai chicken soup even when the temperature rises. For those who need more kick, the menu abounds with fiery choices.
Baraabaru
Four Seasons Kuda Huraa
North Male Atoll, Maldives
Tel: +960 664 4888www.fourseasons.com/maldives
The predominance of Indian diners here is a good sign that the South Asian fare isauthentic. Dine inside or out overlooking the swooshing fish filled waters. Eyes are sure to light up at the dramatic open tandoori bar, which fills the expansive space with the aromas of India.
Deep End
Taj Exotica Resort & Spa
South Male Atoll, Maldives
Tel: +960 664 2200
www.tajhotels.com
Gorge on the Maldives’ most decadent gastronomic pleasures inside this elegant eatery, which is lit by seashell chandelier. Below, sea creatures swarm. The chefs here play with global trends like molecular cooking, incorporating the finest ingredients plus wines from around the world.
Ithaa
Conrad Rangali Island
South Ari Atoll, Maldives
Tel: +960 668 0629
www.conradhotels.com
Book well ahead for one of only 14seatsat the Maldives only underwater eatery. The extensive wine list will impress, as will the creative fusion dishes. But it’s the aquatic entertainment, such as clownfish and octopus, that will make everyone want to come back for second helpings.
Raw
Huvafenfushi Resort
North Male Atoll, Maldives
Tel: +960 664 4222
www.huvafenfushi.com
The dishes are often more dressed up than the bikini-clad diners at this over water eatery on the Maldives’ barefoot chicest isle. Order the premium sashimi, which arrives inside an ice igloo. As well, try the decadent but entirely healthy raw pizza, one of many dishes so exquisite to behold but even better on first bite.
Relish
Alila Villas Hadahaa
Hadahaa Island
North Huvadhoo Atoll, Maldives
Tel: +960 682 8888
alilahotels.com
This two-story eatery is by the pool, and is cool thanks to its eco-friendly open air architecture. Kick start every idyllic day with homemade breads and exotic fruity concoctions. After a snorkel, scuba dive or a trip to the spa, return for the fresh catch and delectable desserts.
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