Hong Kong is fast waking up to the delights of the sweet course. And the proof is in
Crave’s guide to the city’s best desserts.
Text by Jacqueline Yang, illustration by Tim Cheng
The subject of desserts in Hong Kong is obviously a thorny one for Eddy Lee. The head of pastry at Zuma grows visibly agitated when the subject crops up.
“The problem with this city is the lack of dessert culture,” he says. “There’s a lack of appreciation for good desserts.” This, quite evidently poses a problem for any pastry chef, especially one who has trained not only under Marco Pierre White and Alain Ducasse, but was also a member of Alan Yau’s launch team at Hakkasan in London.
The root of the problem, Lee explains, is that Chinese cuisine has never placed an importance on desserts. Those that frequently dine at local Chinese restaurants will know that at the end of a family meal, either customary buns or sliced fruits are served. If one is craving something more extravagant, you must head elsewhere.
When Lee was approached to join the original Zuma team he was reluctant. He wondered who would eat desserts at a Japanese restaurant, which, much like their Chinese counterparts, tend to simply serve fruit at the end of a meal rather than the opulent dessert platters for which Zuma is now famous.
“The majority of the Hong Kong population has always been working class,” Lee adds. “And most of the older generation of working-class locals would not bother going to a fine dining Western restaurant, let alone order an extra dessert. So the culture for truly great desserts has not developed.”
This, however, is slowly changing.
The cupcake craze of recent years, as championed by Sift, has allowed Hong Kong to finally discover its sweet tooth.
“Normally, the idea of saving room for dessert has been a very Western style of thinking,” says Lee. “But we do get a younger crowd in their 20s and 30s coming in and ordering our dessert platter. Asian palates still tend to lean towards fruit-based dishes whereas Westerners prefer creamier puddings that are sweeter. Westerners also love chocolate.”
According to Lee, truly great dessert dishes are still hard to come by and the fierce competition in Hong Kong’s restaurant and hotel scene means that approximately 90 per cent of desserts served across town are bought in to save costs.
Lee believes education is the key. As we become more conscious of where our meat and vegetables come from, we need to question the authenticity of the ingredients in desserts more.
This should start with training chefs to better understand the world of patisserie. But Lee warns, those that want to truly learn how to push the boundaries, must do time at a fine-dining restaurant. “Hotels are great if you want to learn how to cater to the masses and do banquets, but for a chef that is truly passionate about their art, work experience at a high-end restaurant is essential,” he says.
This education can last a lifetime because though desserts mainly consist of sugar, butter, flour and eggs, the methods of preparation are endless.
Here is Crave’s guide to the best desserts in Hong Kong.
Union Bar and GrilleUnion Bar and Grille is not known for its dessert selection but this fantastic alternative to the banoffee pie is one of Hong Kong’s best-kept secrets.
Who could resist a parfait presented in a shiny martini glass brimming with layers of fresh bananas, chocolate sponge cake soaked in Bailey’s Irish Cream, rich toffee and fluffed vanilla bean cream?
Recommended after a light meal –for obvious reasons.
Tel: 2295 1808
Shop 1009, Level One, IFC Mall, Central
The Mandarin Grill + BarThis traditional English pudding has been given a modern makeover by the team at The Mandarin Grill. “Bread and butter pudding is a humble dish, and was a classic way of using up old bread,” says Executive Chef Uwe Opocensky. “The version we make at The Mandarin Grill plays on that theme but uses a fruit-studded brioche instead of bread which is drizzled with honey and served with a vanilla pod. The pat of ‘butter’ next to the
‘bread’ is, in fact, ice cream.”
Those craving a more conventional bread and butter pudding should head to neighbouring Café Causette.
Tel: 2825 4004
Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong, 5 Connaught Road,Central
Awfully ChocolateThis sinfully sweet franchise from Singapore launched in Hong Kong only two years ago, but has been
a hit through word of mouth. Light and moist, yet not too sweet, the original dark chocolate cake with
layers of chocolate fudge packs a punch and is a sure-fire way to cure any chocolate craving.
Also on the menu is the chocolate banana cake and chocolate rum & cherry which are also worth a go.
The store’s minimal bright white facade is hard to miss amid Hong Kong’s frenetic burst of colours and
Awfully Chocolate now boasts four shops across the city.
www.awfullychocolate.com
Paul LafayetFrance’s latest patisserie import Paul Lafayet may be better known for its macarons, but its crème brulée is heavenly. No wonder this signature dessert is a best seller. Soft, creamy and smooth, the dessert’s secret lies in the egg mixture, which is soaked with a vanilla pod 24 hours before cooking.
For extra crunch, the crème brulée is caramelised upon purchase only using La Perruche raw sugar. The result is a crispy layer of caramel. Sadly, there are few seats available at this tiny café. But, trust me, the more determined are lavishly rewarded.
Tel: 3586 9621
Shop G23, K11,18 Hanoi Road, Tsim Sha Tsui
ZumaThe highlight of Zuma’s dessert menu, this generous platter is a wonderful introduction to Eddy Lee’s patisserie prowess. The man behind the sugar at both Zuma and sister restaurant Roka, has perfectly balanced Japanese ingredients with Western aesthetics and cooking techniques in the dish.
The platter features coconut and green tea ice cream, green tea banana cake with coconut ice cream and peanut toffee sauce, steamed sake kasu with kyoho grape sorbet and tropical fruit chawan mushi. Definitely one to share, this combination of puddings and sorbets is as refreshing as it sounds.
Tel: 3657 6388
Level 5 & 6, The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Road Central
Mochi CreamMochi is a Japanese snack made of glutinous rice pounded into paste and formed into a spherical or square shape and then traditionally filled with sweetened red or white bean paste. These days, however, mochi can be filled with anything – including ice cream.
The best mochi on offer in Hong Kong are the cloud-like confections at Mochi Cream. Made fresh daily, these
melt-in-your-mouth delights are available in 19 different flavours – the most popular are mango and caramel.
Tel: 2831 3946
Basement, SOGO Causeway Bay, 555 Hennessy Road
Thai BasilThe leading attraction at contemporary Thai restaurant Thai Basil. Featuring a soft moist banana sponge
on a bed of vanilla cream sauce and topped with a sizeable scoop of honeycomb ice cream, this is definitely
one for the sweet-toothed. Best paired with a shot of espresso.
Tel: 2537 4682
Shop No. 001, Level LG1, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty
RocksaltDon’t be deceived by appearances –this breakfast staple is no ordinary waffle and at Rocksalt
it appears on the all-day brunch menu.
The ideal treat for those who prefer their desserts savoury with a tinge of sweetness. Rocksalt’s version of
Turkish toast features freshly baked bread with ricotta, cinnamon, honey, fresh strawberries and mint.
Not one for a light appetite but well worth saving room for.
Tel: 2899 0818
25 Stanley Market Road, Stanley
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