Now the protests are over, visitors are returning to the Thai capital to enjoy its thriving culinary scene.
Text by Cynthia Rosenfeld
It is known as the City of Angels – and once you have escaped its congested highways, Bangkok certainly exudes a celestial calm. This is in no small measure due to the placid and charming nature of the Thais themselves. A few months back this peace was shattered by the anti-government protests that raged across the centre of the Thai capital but now the laid-back atmosphere has returned as the country gets back to normal.
There is no better way to support Bangkok’s post crisis recovery than with your taste buds and now is an excellent time to make the three-hour air hop from Hong Kong.
If you need an instant reminder of Thailand’s peaceful vibe, begin your trip with a visit to the Sukhothai Hotel. Designed in 1991 by architects Kerry Hill and Edward Tuttle, who went on to achieve considerable fame with amanresorts, this central Bangkok address, with its seductive pool, tropical flower gardens and understated rooms adorned with Jim Thompson silk curtains, offers a wonderful oasis amid the busy city streets.
Celadon, which appears to float over a lotus pond, offers similarly serene interiors and an excellent menu. Trust the recommendations of the English-speaking waiters, who will no doubt point you towards dishes such as seafood steamed in banana leaf (hor mok talay) and the soup of tiger and river prawns seasoned with lemongrass (tom yam). Those who prefer their food on the tamer side should opt for the delicately steamed white snapper with lime juice seasoned with a whiff of chili.
The Four Seasons Bangkok, owing to its location at the crossroads of the city’s central business district, unfortunately found itself in the eye of the political storm in the spring. Now that it’s all over, the hotel is getting back to normal, providing superb service in magnificent surroundings. We upgraded from the standard accommodation to take one of the cabana suites overlooking the palm-fringed outdoor pool.
Later on we headed for the hotel’s Italian restaurant, Biscotti. The Thais may have a proud culinary tradition but the more cosmopolitan among them are beginning to embrace foods from all over the world, as we discovered here. At lunchtime a sophisticated crowd gathered around the antipasti table to load their plates with Parma and Coppa ham, aged pork Lombetto, pancetta, plus a variety of imported cheeses and luscious olives.
Swept up by their enthusiasm, I was soon dipping focaccia in mascarpone and truffle oil into my wild mushroom soup with potatoes and marjoram. At dinner time I returned to take up the chef’s recommendation of paccheri filled with ricotta and spinach in a pumpkin emulsion. The hardier souls among our group later decamped to Aqua, the hotel’s uber-cool liquid lounge.
Arun Residence offers less grand accommodation than Celadon, but its restaurant, The Deck, comes highly recommended. Jutting out over the Chao Phraya River, this al fresco café sits face to face with Wat Arun, the Temple of the Dawn. We watched the sun set behind its intricately carved spires and then dug into organic greens in blood orange reduction, juicy Australian sirloin and spicy Thai curries.
Further along the bustling waterfront, you’ll find Gallery Café, which belongs to one of Asia’s top antique dealers. He has filled the interior with wonderful furniture and historical features. I ran my eye over surprisingly affordable sparkly handbags and silky frocks on sale in the entranceway boutique before tucking into crispy prawn cakes, Thai tuna salad tossed with slivers of powerful chilies and succulent chicken wrapped in pandanus leaves. Thai curries on this extensive menu range from a mild green chicken dish to a red Malaysian beef offering – be warned, the latter is for braver palates only.
If you prefer eating in more modern surroundings, Bed Supper club will suit. The premises looks like a pod designed for space travel and the menu is suitably cutting edge – East-West fusion with mains such as roasted duck breast with chestnut pastilla and wok-seared lobster on shrimp over scented rice with green mango salad. Across the pod, DJs keep the groove going until Bangkok’s wee hours.
Other Asian flavours are making their mark on the Bangkok food scene too, especially at Koi, this town’s hottest sushi spot. An attractive and young clientele fill this sexy low-lit sibling to the Los Angeles original to sample Tokyo sushi and sashimi along with innovative signature rolls and outstanding salads such as rock lobster and avocado tossed with mizuna and shitake mushroom. Among the mains we devoured the Chilean sea bass doused with delicately julienned ginger and couldn’t resist the rich molten chocolate cake sprinkled with wild frozen berries for dessert.
For spectacular views of the city, try Long Table, named for the elongated communal teakwood dining table inside this innovative 25th-floor eatery. I recommend their chilled lobster and avocado with hearts of palm and tomato (“nam prik”) and wok-seared foie gras with tamarind and crispy rice.
On our final night we are among the first diners at Nahm inside the Metropolitan Hotel where Michelin-starred chef David Thompson has just decamped from London. Dishes such as crushed prawns with tumeric and coconut cream (geng gati) and jungle curry with snake head fish (pla chorn) suggest this Australian culinary master is more than matching the high standards demanded in the Thai capital.
Bed Supperclub
26 Soi Sukhumvit 11, Sukhumvit Road, Klongtoey-nua, Wattana, Bangkok
Tel: 66-2-651-3537
www.bedsupperclub.com
Climb up this space-age pod and past the velvet rope into this perennially popular nightclub that also serves exquisite pre fixe meals. Go horizontal on plush daybeds to dine on an ever-changing menu of fusion food then work it off on the adjacent dance floor.
Biscotti
Four Seasons Bangkok, 155 Rajadamri Road, Bangkok
Tel: 66-2-126-8866, ext.1231
www.fourseasons.com/Bangkok
As popular for people-watching as for its fresh, innovative Italian fare, this airy central Bangkok eatery serves up some of the Thai capital’s crispest, most inventive pizzas, authentic antipasti and homemade pasta, leading up to an addictive dessert selection.
Celadon
The Sukhothai Hotel, 13/3 South Sathorn Road, Bangkok
66-2-344-8888www.sukhothai.com
Appearing to float like a lily pad on the Sukhothai hotel’s calming lotus pond, this well established Thai eatery is a favourite for its lemongrass-scented soups, freshly caught seafood and classic phad thai, all of which can be spiced up or down by the accommodating and experienced kitchen staff.
Koi
26 Sukhomvit 20 Road, Klong Toey, Bangkok
Tel: 662-2-258-1590
koirestaurantbkk.com
The rumour that models eat free lures some of Bangkok’s most beautiful bodies to this low lit lounge that’s also one of Bangkok’s best Japanese restaurants. Fresh fish arrives daily from the Tokyo fish market to be turned into sublime sashimi and exotic rolls.
Long Table
25/F, 48 Column Building Sukhomvit Soi 16, Bangkok
66-2-302-2557www.longtablebangkok.com
Socialise with equally gourmet-minded strangers at this penthouse address in central Bangkok with breathtaking views and an extended central table for communal dining. Just as dramatic are the modern takes on classic Thai dishes.
Nahm
The Metropolitan, 27 South Sathorn Road, Bangkok
Tel: 66-2-625-3388
metropolitan.como.bz
David Thompson and his Michelin star arrive from London where he’s the latest word on Bangkok’s dining scene with his far-reaching Thai menu focused on unexpected regional specialties like jungle curry with snake head fish.
Text by Walter Yu
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