Not inspired by the tourist trail? Then plot a culinary course from Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City.
Text by Leonard Chao
Just a mere two-hour flight from Hong Kong,
the Hanoi of today provides a wonderful insight into the grandeur of its past.
Strolling along its tree-lined streets with their plethora of colonial architecture, one can easily feel transported back to the city’s days as a trading post in the former French protectorate.
A stay at the Sofitel Metropole Hotel in Vietnam’s capital only adds to the history, especially if you choose a room in its colonial wing. But it isn’t just Hanoi’s architecture or streets that offer a taste of a bygone era; this city’s cuisine also showcases its rich past.
In fact, for those not inclined to follow the tourist trail – though the Ho Chi Minh sites and temple of literature are well worth visiting – Hanoi’s vast selection of restaurants will certainly keep you occupied. The city is bursting with cheap cafes and, if your tastes are more expensive, it also offers plenty in the way of fine dining.
For traditional French, impressive dishes are on offer at Le Beaulieu at the Metropole. This might end up being your most expensive meal in Vietnam, but price-wise, in comparison to the similar calibre restaurant elsewhere in the world, it’s a steal. The seared foie gras here was of such high quality that it stood out as a highlight of our whole trip.
Or for a less traditional and more creative experience, I recommend the Green Tangerine, where you can enjoy French fare infused with Vietnamese influences within the wonderful ambience of a restored colonial villa.
And before you leave Hanoi, a visit to the 139-year-old Cha Ca La Vong is a must. This basic restaurant is a Hanoi institution – its street is even named after it – largely for its signature dish “cha ca” (grilled white fish drenched in florescent yellow oil). I confess I wasn’t enamoured but I can understand those who say you haven’t seen Hanoi unless you have experienced this restaurant’s Spartan seating, grimy floors and heavily stained walls.
Next stop was Halong Bay, a three-hour drive from the capital. This surreal sight of the hundreds of irregular shaped islands off the coast here is best viewed aboard a boat, and by far the best choice is a private charter from Bhaya Cruises. How better to enjoy peaceful sailing around this World Heritage site accompanied by your own private chef and attentive staff. With a choice of fresh seafood caught by local fishermen from a floating village, meals aboard are just splendid.
From there we headed to the seaside town of Hoi An. Once an important 17th century trading post, Hoi An earned its status as a World Heritage site owing to its well-preserved colonial houses. Just 10 minutes outside town was our magnificent hotel, The Nam Hai. The wonderful afternoon tea and pre-dinner canapes served here are just a prelude to the feast on offer in the resort later that evening.
Having tried the delicate local and international cuisine on offer – we ventured out of the resort to try Hoi An Hai San. Headed by a husband and wife team, the creations on offer at this petite eatery were simply superb. A tip? Take a table facing the river and watch the leisurely pace of local life as you dine on exquisitely fresh fruits of the sea.
We chose then to fly out to Hue, a small town two hours north of Hoi An. This former imperial city captures the essence of Vietnam’s glorious past prior to the French era.
Walking around the ancient citadel and cruising along the Perfume River, it is easy to imagine what life was like during the golden age of Vietnam. When the touring is done, recharge yourself at the restored art-deco mansion hotel La Residence.
And be sure to try its version of banh xeo (Vietnamese savoury pancakes). They were so delightfully tasty and crispy we repeated our order – twice!
And so on to Ho Chi Minh City, still known to locals as Saigon. More commercial than Hanoi, Saigon lacks the romance of its northern counterpart. But when it comes to food, it has more of an international base than the rest of the country.
For example, the cuisine at Le Cepage is simply divine and is accompanied by an abundant choice of wines, a rarity in Vietnam.
If you find the afternoon heat of Saigon overwhelming, I recommend a dip in the pool at the Park Hyatt. Thereafter, the hotel’s Square one restaurant is surprisingly good – its Vietnamese choices were some of the best we had in the entire trip.
It was time to build up our appetites again. While Ho Chi Minh City offers little in the way of tourism, a trip to the Cu Chi tunnels is definitely worthwhile. This immense network, most famously used by the Viet Cong during the Vietnam War, is chillingly effective in evoking the horrors of the conflict, especially when you come face to face with booby traps and hear the simulated gunshots blasting in your eardrums. Be sure to order a packed lunch from Annam Gourmet.
The sandwiches and cookies are just delicious.
No self-respecting foodie can leave Vietnam without sampling “pho”, Vietnam’s famed rice noodles. And there’s no better place to sample them than at Pho Hoa Pasteur.
The consistency and flavour is second to none and is alone worth the trip. My only regret is only visiting once.
I didn’t expect much from Vietnam. As I had been warned, the shopping and handicrafts aren’t spectacular and the old architecture isn’t a patch on Angkor Wat in neighbouring Cambodia. Its saving grace is its cuisine – whether it be traditional French, Vietnamese or a mixture of both. I might even be back for second helpings.
Bhaya Cruise
Private Boat Charter, Halong Bay, Vietnam Tel: 825-1286
Choose between the classic cruise or the chartered vessel, Bhaya Cruises fulfills an enchanting trip around the natural wonders of Halong Bay splendidly.
Square one
Park Hyatt Hotel, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam Tel: 826-8801
Combining Northern and Southern cuisines, Square one is a delightful venue to taste all that Vietnam has to offer. If you can’t decide what to order, the waiters here are extremely knowledgeable.
Le Beaulieu
Sofitel Metropole, Legend, Hanoi, Vietnam Tel: 826-8801
Noted as the best French restaurant in the country, Le Beaulieu serves up authentic and tasteful dishes. In addition to dinners, Sunday brunches are highly recommended.
Le Cepage
Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam Tel: 826-8801
For a spectacular international meal in a contemporary setting, stop by Le Cepage. Be sure to top it off with a night cap at it’s popular bar venue on the ground floor.
Club De L’Oriental
22 Ton Dan Street, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi, Vietnam Tel: 826-8801
With excellently prepared local fares, Club De L’Oriental is a perfect place for Vietnamese favourites. If you’re a party of two, consider sitting around the open kitchen.
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