Review

Blue Supreme

A beer-focused restaurant serving hearty American fare in Sheung Wan.

Words Iris Wong

 

The Space

Tucked away on Tung Street off Hollywood Road, Blue Supreme is Sheung Wan’s latest bistropub that takes its beers as seriously as its food, which is soulful new American cuisine. The large bar area occupies almost half the restaurant space, showcasing over 10 craft brews on draft, as well as a well-stocked fridge of bottled beers from across the globe. Apart from the long communal table, guests can also opt to sit at the semi-al fresco wooden counter, rendering the restaurant a gem for dog owners who want to dine with their pets. The oxford blue walls, dark wood accents and steel ceiling fans give Blue Supreme a raw, industrial look without being a hipster cliché.

The Food & Beer

Blue Supreme’s beer menu is arranged by intensity and flavour profiles, from crisp, light and refreshing to sour and funky. A quick chat with co-founder Ted Lai reveals his love for unique craft brews, which explains the wide range of saisons, wild ales and Lambics – beer styles uncommon in Hong Kong – on the menu.

Brussels sprouts, hazelnut, double smoked bacon

Brussels sprouts, hazelnut, double smoked bacon

Beer and food pairing is the essence of Blue Supreme, and is available at a very affordable $40 for 125ml. Three particular pairings really stood out: the scallop crudo with uni, fennel and grapes paired with a saison beer, which accentuated the brininess of the scallop without overpowering the freshness of the seafood; charred and raw Brussels sprouts with hazelnut and double smoked bacon – a dish harmonised by the smokiness of the charred Brussel sprouts, the savoury, meaty flavour of bacon and sweet, tart green apple – served with a green, hoppy and vegetal green tea beer; a duck confit burger with runny egg yolk paired with the Lindemans kriek Lambic beer fermented with sour cherries – two items that might be deemed too heavy individually, yet complemented each other perfectly with the beer’s tartness cutting through the richness of the burger. The desserts were also excellent, especially the naturally sweet New Zealand beets with cotton candy grapes and marigold in three ways – milk, oil and cream – which was refreshing after a hearty meal.

The Verdict

While my guest and I are not really sour beer fans, Lai did a great job in introducing us to beer styles that, while less common in Hong Kong, are complex with distinctive characteristics that can be enjoyed like wine. We appreciate that executive chef Leonard Cheung isn’t afraid to use sour and bitter flavours in the spring menu that we tried, and how well the food worked with the beers offered at Blue Supreme. We look forward to seeing how the bistropub’s future food and drink menus will evolve.


Blue Supreme
21 Tung Street, Sheung Wan
Tel: 2323 3633

 

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