Authentic omakase experience highlighting fresh, seasonal ingredients with homemade sauces in Tsim Sha Tsui.
Words Nicole Hurip
A cosy space opened up with natural lighting, Sushi Taki’s décor is as minimalist as its food focus. Featuring an L-shaped, seven-seater sushi bar, the dark, marbled granite counter top is almost warm to the touch and strangely comforting. We perch upon cushioned stools that prioritise form over function, and observed as the chefs prepared our meal.
We opted for the most opulent omakase option: Matsu ($1,580), because life is short. A beautiful starter platter began our meal, featuring a refreshing combination of cucumber and sweet Kanayama miso, tender cod roe egg served with a pinch of mashed turnip, and other small bites designed to awaken the palate. The miso was nutty and mild, and complemented the fresh sweetness of the cucumber, while the cod roe added just the right amount of umami flavour, which blended seamlessly with the earthy, clean taste of the turnip. Next, we had a selection of sashimi, which included two slices of the best tuna loin we’ve ever had. Shipped chilled instead of frozen from Nagasaki, the thick, glistening slices of o-toro and chutoro are exceedingly tender and almost juicy. After ranting about its deliciousness for some time, we sobered up for some sushi. We were very impressed with the Pacific Saury, which was served with a creamy dollop of sauce made from the fish’s liver, giving the sushi a complex, pâté-like flavour and highlighting the interplay of texture. The salmon roe sushi served with its membrane intact is best enjoyed during late autumn when it is fully ripe and tastes the best. We could fully corroborate with this fact, because this was salmon roe like we had never tasted before. Marinated for two days, the salmon roe’s natural sweetness comes bursting through with no hint of fishiness whatsoever. By now we’ve lost track of which course we were on, but our bellies were not fooled. After a seemingly endless stream (but absolutely delicious) parade of sushi, sashimi and hot dishes, we were presented with a sweet, orange smile of Yubari melon – an appropriately light ending to a rich, satisfying meal.
We could taste the quality and freshness of the ingredients in every bite, but our enjoyment became increasingly laborious as the meal wore on. One can only consume so much fatty fish, and the combination of toro, uni and the sheer amount of food was rather overwhelming. We recommend going for the two other options, Take ($1,180) or Ume ($800), that offer more concise menus – unless your stomach can match the size of your eyes. That being said, the superb quality of food is well worth every penny and burst button.
Spending: $1,580, $1,180 or $800 for omakase dinner menus; lunch sets start from $180
Highlights: tuna loin, Pacific Saury, salmon roe
What else: the legendary aged sake, Juyondai “14th Generation” Junmai Daiginyo Ryusen (with an annual production of merely 1,000 to 1,500 bottles) is served here for a whopping $58,800, as well as a delicious homemade plum wine
17/F 17-19 Ashley Road, Tsim Sha Tsui
Tel: 2706 2028