Review

Wolfgang’s Steakhouse

Renowned New York steakhouse by ex-Peter Lugers headwaiter opens his sixth Asian outpost in Hong Kong.

Words Iris Wong

 

The Space

Wolfgang’s Steakhouse’s interior is exactly what you’d expect at a traditional American steakhouse: wooden wall panels, big tables covered with white table cloths, and a small bar area with a TV permanently stuck on the sports channel. While we appreciate the spaciousness of the seats and tables, the restaurant does get quite noisy as it fills up for lunch and dinner. It is not our kind of romantic, intimate spot, but it’s certainly great for groups.

The Food

To start, we have the seafood platter ($398) with jumbo shrimp cocktail, crab meat and lobster in half-shell. It’s a refreshing way to whet our appetite, though nothing memorable that we’ll be raving about. The same can also be said about the Beverly Hills chopped salad ($148) and the crab cake ($168) that arrive next, and we find the latter to be a tad too buttery. As we begin to feel underwhelmed, enters the bone-in porterhouse steak – USDA prime and dry-aged in-house for around 28 days – which has us salivating at the scent of melted butter and umami from aged beef. The meat on either side of the T-bone has a distinct difference in flavour and texture: one side is firmer with a meatier taste, the other juicier and more marbled with a milder taste. We enjoy both, and cannot get enough of the tender steak with a crisp outer layer. The portion for two (1,000g/$1,150) is so big it can sufficiently feed three if you are ordering starters and side dishes, though we say leave room for the steak and skip the sides. We finish off the meal with Wolfgang’s famous lime pie, which, unfortunately, we find too sweet and heavy after the porterhouse.

Verdict

Wolfgang’s Steakhouse is where you’d come for a top-notch porterhouse, and in our experience, the porterhouse alone. But if you intend to visit Wolfgang’s with a non-beef eating friend, for whatever reason, its comprehensive menu also offers seafood, salads and other vegetarian options.

Spending: $2,000 for three (excluding wine)
Highlight: porterhouse
What else: this review is written before Wolfgang’s has obtained an alcohol license, but a quick visit to its website shows a 19-page wine list that is sure to get oenophiles excited.


Wolfgang’s Steakhouse

1/F Printing House, 6 Duddell Street, Central
Tel: 3990 1646

 

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