Masa-san serves exquisite, expensive omakase and some of the best toro in town.
Words Tiffany Chan Photos Samantha Sin
Sushi Rozan has been rebranded as Sushi Masataka, named after the chef behind the bar, becoming the third of Lai Sun Dining Group’s restaurants to undergo a transformation. The 1,200 sq ft restaurant seats nine at the intimate and rather luxurious chef ’s counter, where they receive the close attention of Masa-san and his team, and can watch the chefs prepping each course with excruciating detail. Two dinner omakase menus are available, priced at $2,080 and $2,980.
The meal begins with several starters before moving on to edomae-style sushi, soup and dessert. A highlight of the starters, monkfish liver was served cold with a ponzu jelly, which was at once delicate and refreshing and cut through the richness of the liver. Pearly, translucent squid nigiri was another highlight, meticulously diced and scored to resemble grains of rice, and seasoned with spiced salt and horseradish. Abalone, steamed until perfectly tender, and clean-flavoured octopus both sit in an abalone liver sauce that adds a complex richness to the dish. Tuna was featured in several courses: akami, marinated for several minutes and dressed in yuzu pepper sauce; a neat stack of three paper-thin slices of chutoro; and the fattiest cut, o-toro, grilled on the binchotan and served smoky, aromatic and dressed in garlic ponzu sauce. The white sea urchin roll was simple but deliciously creamy, briny and perfect. Fish-bone soup had clean, deep flavours, spiked with black shichimi. The meal ended with hojicha and a single muscat grape from Nagano, which was a refreshing palate cleanser, but rather anticlimactic.
Masa-san isn’t afraid to do something different (see three-slice toro), and his clever use of garnishes offers one of the best sushi meals in town, although it’s not wallet-friendly. Oenophiles be warned, the chef only serves sake, with no wines available. Open for dinner only, with two seatings a night from 6pm to 8pm, and from 8.30pm.
Spending: only two dinner omakase menus are available, priced at $2,080 and $2,980, without drinks.
Highlights: squid nigiri; triple layer toro
What else: the entire restaurant only seats nine and is very, very quiet and formal
Shop 2, G/F The Oakhill, 18 Wood Road, Wan Chai
Tel: 2574 1333