Review

Golden Flower

Exquisite imperial Chinese cuisine at its finest by acclaimed chef Liu Guo-zhu in a tasteful, opulent setting.

Words Iris Wong

 

The Space

Dine like royalty in Michelin-two-starred Golden Flower, which serves imperial Chinese Tan cuisine in an opulent setting, with Fortuny silk lanterns and a red and white cloisonné mosaic floor. A tea lounge with high shelves filled with Chinese vases and teapots was inspired by the Peacock Room, originally decorated by James McNeill Whistler for a 19th-century British shipping tycoon and now on display in Washington DC. The extravagance doesn’t end there. Providing attentive service are staff in silk uniforms designed by Rene Ozorio, while the restaurant’s tasteful tableware is by award-winning Hong Kong designer Alan Chan.

The Food

A blend of the best northern and southern Chinese cooking, Tan cuisine teases out the essence of ingredients, often through labour-intensive processes. We started with an assortment of three cold appetisers: tender, juicy Beijing roasted pork, spiced braised yellow croaker, and an appetite-inducing sweet and sour cabbage roll with mango in chilli vinaigrette. Next came braised “three treasures” (abalone, fish maw and matsutake mushroom) in supreme chicken broth that was the ultimate indulgence: thick yellow broth – its colour obtained from slow-cooked carrots rather than chicken oil to suit health-conscious modern palates – made with chicken, duck and Jinhua ham in a 12-hour cooking process. In another highlight, juicy, tender broiled beef was served hot inside a crispy, flaky sesame puff – the most authentic way to enjoy this Lu-style dish.

Verdict

Golden Flower impresses through chef Liu Guo-zhu’s culinary finesse and its exceptional attention to detail in everything from its premium tea selection to the calligraphy on the menu (which can be customised on request). Need another reason to visit? Lunch at this Michelin-starred eatery starts at $250 per person.

Spending: $1,280pp for the special Michelin menu
Highlights: braised “three treasures”, broiled beef with sesame puffs
What else: we also love chef Liu’s lu da gun “rolling donkey” dessert


Golden Flower

Wynn Macau, Rua Cidade de Sintra, Nape, Macau
Tel: +853 8986 3689

 

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